The Rock of Gibraltar is honeycombed with a number of manmade tunnel systems, which reflect the centuries of conflict faced by Gibraltar during its many sieges. Although some tunnels remain in use by the military today, it is possible to visit many that were previously closed to the public.
Great Siege Tunnels
During the Great Siege, the gallant defenders were stunned when the Spanish and French besiegers dug into trenches too close to Gibraltar for the British to fire on them. Imaginative solutions were needed, and Sgt Major Ince suggested tunnelling to get to a projection of rock to allow the British guns to fire sideways on the attackers. While tunneling by hand through the solid rock, the dust was so stifling that air vents were created, and it was then realised these holes would make excellent embrasures for guns. The Great Siege Tunnels are a testimony to British ingenuity and to sheer courage and determination.
World War II Tunnels
In 1940, Britain was at war with Germany and Italy and the future looked bleak for Gibraltar as the enemy surrounded it. Winston Churchill and the British military leaders believed that an attack on Gibraltar was imminent. The answer was to construct a massive network of tunnels, to build a fortress inside a fortress, a city within a city. In May 2005 the World War II Tunnels were opened to the general public and now you too can follow in the footsteps of Churchill, Sikorski and De Gaulle and walk through this amazing testament to the soldiers and civilians who toiled in the very bowels of the Rock during the darkest days of the War. For further information please contact one of the following:
The Gibraltar Tourist Board
Duke of Kent House, Cathedral Square, Gibraltar
Tel: (+ 350) 200 74950
Fax: (+ 350) 200 74943
E-mail: tourism@gibraltar.gi
WWII Tunnels
Princes Caroline’s Battery, Upper Rock
Tel: (+ 350) 200 45957
Gibraltar is proud of its harmonious multi-cultural society and diverse religious denominations. Many houses of worship date back centuries and hold not only religious but great historical value.
Catholic Cathedral of St Mary the Crowned
Most traces of Spanish and Moorish Gibraltar were destroyed during the Great Siege, when some 250,000 rounds of shots and shell were fired at the garrison. St Mary the Crowned, however, stands on the site of the chief mosque and some parts of the early structure can still be seen.
Anglican Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
Despite its deceptively Moorish appearance, Holy Trinity was not laid down until 1825. It was consecrated in 1838 at a service attended by Queen Adelaide, widow of William IV. Among those buried here is General Sir George Don under whose direction the cathedral was erected.
St Andrew’s Church
Throughout the 150 years since it opened; there has been a Presbyterian presence in Gibraltar. In the mid nineteenth century, Scottish regiments were an integral part of the British army presence on the rock, but official indifference prevented those posted to Gibraltar practising their own religious tradition.
In the 1840s a group of ex-patriate Scots began the fundraising, which resulted in the opening of St Andrew's Church on May 30th 1854. Its distinctive tower looks down from the south end of Governor's Parade, and inside the sanctuary, plaques and furnishings bear the insignia of the services that once worshipped there. Surrounding the chancel area is a striking set of stained glass windows dating back to 1953.Sunday worship is at 10:30am. Should you wish to read more about St Andrews Church, please see our website: www.scotskirkgibraltar.com
The Great Synagogue and the Flemish Synagogue
Gibraltar has a considerable Jewish community and the Great Synagogue, in Engineer Lane, has the distinction of being one of the oldest on the Iberian Peninsula, dating back to 1724. Guided tours of the beautiful Flemish Synagogue, located in Line Wall Road, can be arranged.
King’s Chapel
This garrison church beside the Convent was originally known as the King’s Chapel but was renamed as the Queen’s Chapel during Queen Victoria’s reign. When Queen Elizabeth was crowned, she restored its original title. Inside, beneath the colours of several British regiments, lay the remains of the wife of the Spanish governor in 1648, together with the remains of British governors O’Hara and Campbell, who were laid to rest in 1802 and 1813 respectively.
Shrine of Our Lady of Europe and Museum (Europa Point)
This famous shrine, a former mosque, was converted to a catholic chapel in 1462, after which a permanent light was kept burning before the image of Our Lady of Europe, a fifteenth century statue of the Virgin and Child. Set in a tower, this was the forerunner of the lighthouse at Europa Point.
The chapel was the repository of many rich gifts, particularly silver lamps presented by galley commanders. The most famous gift was the lamp given by Admiral Prince Doria in 1568, after his capture of five Turkish galleys in the strait. The shrine was ransacked in 1540 by Turkish pirates, and again by the British in 1704.
Europe day (5th May) is now celebrated annually at the shrine, which once again houses the venerated statue, brought back from Algeciras in 1864. To the west of the shrine is a fragment of an old Moorish pavement. On the north side stands an old whipping post. There is a small museum within the chapel telling the history of this building.
Roman Catholic
Cathedral of St Mary the Crowned
215 Main Street
Tel: (+ 350) 200 76688
Fax: (+350) 20043112
Stand on top of the Rock of Gibraltar and you feel as if you were on top of the world. Europe is at your feet. Africa fills one horizon, while the gates to the Mediterranean and the Atlantic are on either side.
The silent journey to the top of the Rock by cable car rewards you with a truly breathtaking view. From a height of 430m you will see the African coastline, where the waters of the Atlantic meet the Mediterranean, Spain’s Costa del Sol and a panoramic view of the City far below, the quays, marinas and bays. Stroll the quiet path to St Michael’s Cave and you will be alone with nature.
Great Siege Tunnels
During the Great Siege, the gallant defenders were stunned when the Spanish and French besiegers dug into trenches too close to Gibraltar for the British to fire on them. Imaginative solutions were needed, and Sgt Major Ince suggested tunnelling to get to a projection of rock to allow the British guns to fire sideways on the attackers. While tunnelling by hand through the solid rock, the dust was so stifling that air vents were created, and it was then realised these holes would make excellent embrasures for guns.
The Great Siege Tunnels are a testimony to British ingenuity and to sheer courage and determination. The Great Siege Tunnels have been brought to life with the installation of various exhibitions within its chambers re-enacting some scenes lived in these tunnels throughout their unique history.
Apes
Visit the Apes’ Den, home to some of Gibraltar’s famous Barbary Apes, the only free-to-roam primates in Europe. According to legend, if the Apes leave Gibraltar it will cease to be British.
Watch out for monkey business though as they can be mischievous – and remember, they are wild animals. Don’t do anything to annoy them and do not feed them as they are fed fresh food every day.
St Michael's Cave
The spectacular natural caverns of St Michael’s Cave begin about 350m above sea level and descend into the Rock.
St Michael’s Cave forms a huge auditorium, which makes an unforgettable setting for concerts and live shows (for more information on concerts in St Michael’s Cave please visit www.philharmonic.gi).
Walking the chambers beyond, reveals giant stalactites and stalagmites. Lower St Michael’s Cave, visited by pre-arranged tours, contains an amazing lake (for further details please see the Tours page).
Moorish Castle
Dating back to the 11th century, this “Tower of Homage” is all that remains of the original castle complex that once stretched all the way down to Casemates Square, at the north end of Main Street.
The Moorish Castle Complex is made up of various buildings, gates, fortified walls and its most dominant features, The Tower of Homage and The Gate House. The former is an impressive sight, clearly visible to all visitors, not only because of its striking construction but also because of its dominant and strategic position.
The Gibraltar Museum is centrally located within the City of Gibraltar, just one minute walking distance from the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St Mary the Crowned in Main Street. It is the ideal interpretation centre for Gibraltar, covering all aspects of its history and natural history, and is therefore a must for every visitor.
Situated in Bomb House Lane, the Gibraltar Museum houses the best-preserved Moorish Bath House in Europe. The Museum contains a rich collection of artefacts, weapons, medals, costumes, coins and postage stamps, together with a magnificently detailed old model of the Rock, constructed by officers of the Royal Engineers in 1865. Of particular interest is the outstanding collection of natural history, with specimens presented against realistic backgrounds. A fifteen-minute film showing the history of Gibraltar is included in the entrance price.
The galleries cover a wide range of subjects, from the geological origins of the Rock in the Jurassic Period around 200 million years ago to the present day. Next visit the Moorish Baths, one of the more unique rooms, which portrays the Islamic history of Gibraltar. View a large-scale model of the Rock in 1865 and compare it to the Rock of today. Alongside you will see a large collection of photographs displaying spectacular episodes of the North African operations during the Second World War, the construction of the naval dockyards or indeed life in the nineteenth century.
Not to be missed is the Great Siege of Gibraltar exhibition and an art gallery in honour of Gibraltar’s most famous painter, Gustavo Bacarisas. Following from here there is a large room which has been converted into a cave in which can be seen some of the spectacular prehistoric discoveries which have made the Rock famous. Complete your tour with a display of Gibraltar’s unique Natural History, from the spectacular bird migrations to the marine life, which abounds around its shores. There is much to see in the museum and an entire morning or afternoon can be spent browsing through the exhibits. Relax in the peaceful gardens of the museum and enjoy a coffee or refreshment or perhaps a local dish from the restaurant’s cuisine.
Gibraltar has been of strategic importance throughout its long military history. The Rock has endured many sieges, the most famous being the Great Siege of 1783. Visitors can appreciate the great feat of engineering achieved at the Great Siege Tunnels, as indeed in all the other tunnels and chambers that have been dug in the Rock.
Walk through the impressive Great Siege Tunnels that were excavated by the forerunners of the Royal Engineers in the late 18th century or marvel at the graffiti from this time at the City Under Siege exhibition.
The Military Heritage Centre is housed in one of the many Batteries found in the Rock. The Battery still houses the original hoists used to arm the gun, as well as the shells and other artefacts used in those days. The armoury displays a selection of weapons used by the British Army in Gibraltar and there are also relics dating from the Great Siege of 1783 to the present day.
In the back chamber, known as the Memorial Chamber, visitors have the opportunity to honour and remember all those men and women who have, over the ages dedicated themselves to the service of the Nation in the Armed Forces. You will find the Roll Call of all the Regiments that have served in Gibraltar since 1704 together with the ensigns of the Senior Service and the Royal Air Force, all of whom have contributed to the peace and prosperity that we enjoy today.
The Trafalgar Cemetery
Situated just south of the City Walls, it was used as Gibraltar’s military cemetery in the early 19th century. Although the name commemorates the Battle of Trafalgar, only two of those buried here actually died of wounds suffered at the battle (1805). A ceremony is held here every year to commemorate Lord Nelson’s victory.
Nelson’s Anchorage
At Nelson’s Anchorage there are superb views across the Strait and of Rosia Bay. Also worth visiting is the impressive 100 ton gun installed in the early 19th century, but never fired in anger.
One Hundred Ton Gun
By Rosia Bay stands the Napier of Magdala Battery (1884), home of Gibraltar’s 100-ton gun. Manufactured in 1870, four were originally in existence, two came to Gibraltar and the others were sent to Malta. This is only the only one remaining on the Rock. The other was situated at Victoria Battery, which is where the City Fire Station is today.
Parson's Lodge
The imposing Parson’s Lodge, one of Gibraltar’s most important fortifications, is a must for anyone interested in military history.
Parson’s Lodge is a mini Gibraltar - a narrow limestone dorsal, running North-South, laced with a labyrinth of underground tunnels and surmounted by a seemingly impregnable battery, which has witnessed the development of coast artillery over the last three centuries.
This is situated on the Line Wall Boulevard. It was unveiled by the then Governor in 1923. There are two Russian guns close by which were brought to Gibraltar in 1858 after having been captured during the Crimean War.
A visit to Gibraltar is the key to a rich, diverse and fascinating world of wildlife.
In a den high on the Rock live Gibraltar's most famous residents, the Barbary Apes, the only wild primates in Europe. Friendly, charming and inquisitive, the apes have lived on the Rock for centuries. Legend says that when the apes leave, Gibraltar will cease to be British.
In the seas around Gibraltar the diversity of life is just as great. Sail into the bay and, more often than not, your boat will be followed by flying fish and pods of leaping dolphins.
Great efforts are made to ensure that the Rock's natural environment is kept as unspoilt and beautiful for future visitors as it is today. A large area of the Upper Rock has been designated as a nature reserve and famous public park, the Alameda Gardens, has recently introduced a new wildlife park to their grounds.
Barbary Apes
At the Apes' Den (Queen's Gate) and in the area of the Great Siege Tunnels there is the rare opportunity to see semi-wild primates at close quarters. If you let them, the monkeys will be their captivating selves and behave in their everyday natural manner.
The Apes are a species of tailless monkeys called Barbary Macaques. These Macaques can be found in Morocco and Algeria, with those in Gibraltar being the only free-living monkeys in Europe today.
There are about 160 monkeys living in Gibraltar in two main areas. About 20 of them at Apes' Den can be observed closely. Male and female youngsters can often be seen playing together. They are vulnerable, so please keep your distance!
If you see only a few active monkeys on site at first, be patient! Look carefully at the cliff/trees where you will probably spot some more. They spend over 30% of their day interacting with visitors but remember, they are still semi-wild animals. They need time to rest and take part in other 'monkey activities', free from interference.
The welfare of the Barbary Apes is now in the hands of the Ministry for the Environment and the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society. For further information, please visit www.gonhs.org.
Dolphins
Gibraltar’s favourable Mediterranean climate makes for sightings of a variety of rare species of birds, dolphins, whales, fish and turtles. Dolphins can be found in various haunts around the coast of Gibraltar where they feed on sardines, herring, squid, anchovies and flying fish and have been known to dive to a depth of about 280 metres.
A dolphin-watching trip is the most enjoyable way of seeing these fascinating mammals up close and there are several boat trips to choose from. In addition to no fewer than three species of dolphin, whales also migrate here, including the largest mammal of them all, the Blue Whale. For more information on dolphin trips in Gibraltar, please visit our Dolphins page.
Upper Rock Nature Reserve
In the spring and autumn the rock is a staging post for millions of migrating birds, in particular, large roaming raptors such as eagles, vultures and buzzards. Resident species include Peregrine Falcon, Blue Rock thrush and the rare Barbary Partridge. For more information on bird watching please visit our Bird Watching page.
The Alameda Gardens Wildlife Park
This small animal park is a haven for animals seized by Customs or Police. Its main purpose is to house animals that have been confiscated by the authorities having been illegally captured from the wild and imported into Gibraltar. While they cannot be returned to the wild, they are well looked after and used for conservation and educational purposes. For more information please visit www.gibraltargardens.gi
Gibraltar is home to a wealth of plant life - palms and jacaranda, lavender and jasmine, clematis, honeysuckle, geraniums and bougainvillaea live side by side with many rarer species including two, Gibraltar Candytuft and Gibraltar Sea Lavender, named after the Rock itself. Great efforts are continuously made to ensure that the Rock's natural environment is kept as unspoilt and beautiful for future visitors as it is today. A large area of the upper rock has been designated as a nature reserve and Gibraltar's famous public park, the Alameda Gardens, has recently been transformed into a new botanical garden to rival the best in the world
Opened in 1816, adjacent to a historic parade ground, the Alameda Gardens present a magnificent botanical collection. Mediterranean pines and olive trees form a canopy along with Dragon Trees and palms from the Atlantic Islands.
Beds display flora, cacti and succulent plants from far off sub-tropical places including South Africa, the Far East, Australia and California. In this oasis, a spectacular amphitheatre has been restored to its former glory and is open on special occasions for concerts and stage shows. Guided tours are available by arrangement.
As the Strait of Gibraltar is the narrowest crossing point for birds migrating to and from Europe and Africa, the Rock offers unrivalled bird watching opportunities. Over 200 species of birds have been recorded, many of which are migratory. Gibraltar, at the head of the Strait, is a prominent headland, which accumulates migrants during the passage periods. The vegetation on the Rock, unique in southern Iberia, provides a temporary home for many species of migratory birds that stop to rest and feed before continuing migration for their crossing over the desert and sea. In spring they return to replenish before continuing their journeys to Western Europe, journeys that may take them as far as Greenland or Russia. The bird watching high season extends from February to June, and from July to October, although interesting species can be seen throughout the year. For example, Gibraltar also has its permanent residents such as the Barbary Partridge, which was only to be found originally in North Africa, and nowhere else in Mainland Europe.
Full details of the bird passage through Gibraltar can be found on the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society website: www.gonhs.org
February - March
February to March is good for Cory Shearwater, Black Kite and Short-toed Eagle.
March – April
During late March to April there is a good variety of passage raptors including Black Kite, Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Marsh and Montagu’s Harriers, Buzzard, Booted Eagle and Osprey.
April – May
Are excellent for migrating passerines and large falls occur in the Strait area after bad weather.
July – August
July and August are probably the best sea-watching months. There are large numbers of Balearic and Cory’s Shearwaters offshore and there is a large westward movement of thousands of Audouins’s Gulls which pass close to the shore. Other seabirds are likely at this time. July to August is also the peak of the southward migration of the White Stork, Black Kite and Swift.
August – October
The last week of August and the first ten days of September are the best for large numbers of raptors on migration, especially Honey Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture and Montagu’s Harrier. Black Storks and Short-toed and Booted Eagles follow at the end of September and in early October. The main passerine activity in autumn is in late September to mid-November when large falls occur after bad weather. Finch migration during October and early November is spectacular.
Birds move through the area of the Strait throughout the year, making is difficult to divide the year by seasons. The bulk of migration takes place from March to May and from August to October but not all species conform to this pattern. White storks, for example, pass south across The Strait in large numbers during late July and early August, and return northward from the end of October. Any time of year can be rewarding for the visitor.
ALL YEAR
Interesting species which can be found throughout the year include:
Balearic Shearwater, Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Marbled and White-headed Ducks, Red Kite, Griffon and Black Vultures, Goshawk, Spanish Imperial, Golden and Bonelli’s Eagles, Barbary Partridge, Purple Gallinule, Crested Coot, Little and Great Buzzards, Avocet, Stone-curlew, Kentish Plover, Black-bellied and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Eagle Owl, Dupont’s and Thekla Larks, Crag Martin, Alpine Accentor, Black Redstart, Black Wheater, Blue Rock Thrush, Cetti’s Dartford and Sardinian Warblers, Crested Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper, Great Grey Shrike, Azure-winged Magpie, Chough, Spotless Starling, Spanish and Rock Sparrows, Serin and Hawfinch.
APRIL - SEPTEMBER
Those wanting to observe the greatest variety of species should visit during mid-April to mid-June. At this time birds are still migrating north and most of the summer visitors have arrived to breed. Among the interesting summer visitors are:
Little Bittern, Night Squacco and Purple Herons, Black and White Storks, Black Kite, Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Montagu’s Harrier, Booted Eagle, Lesser Kestrel, Black-winged Stilt, Collared Pratincole, Slender-billed Gull, Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Scops Owl, Red-necked Nightjar, Pallid, Alpine and White-rumped Swifts, Bee-eater, Roller, Hoopoe, Short-toed and Lesser Short-toed Larks, Red-rumped Swallow, Tawny Pipit, Rufous Bush Robin, Black-eared Wheatear, Rock Thrush, Savi’s Great Reed, Olivaceaous, Melodious, Spectacled, Subalpine, Orphean and Bonelli’s Warblers, Woodchat Shrike, Trumpeter Finch and Ortolan Bunting.
NOVEMBER - FEBRUARY
The winter period, which may be considered to start in November and end in February, is also an interesting time as winter visitors from the North arrive and the residents species are still around. It is a good time to observe waterfowl, waders and some passerines, in large numbers and some raptors such as Red Kite and Hen Harrier are most abundant at this time. The winter is a suitable time for a short visit as the weather is usually mild except in the mountains. Interesting wintering species are: Greylag Goose, Red-crested Pochard, Crane, Black-tailed Godwit, Mediterranean Gull, Alpine Accentor and Penduline Tit.
THE MIGRATION OF BIRDS
During the height of the last glacial advance 18000 years ago, the Iberian Peninsula and the Balkans become refuges for birds which could not survive the rigours of the climate further north. During this period much of Iberia was covered in deciduous and coniferous forests of a similar type to those nowadays found in central and northern Europe. With the retreat of the glaciers and the return to more temperate environments all over Europe, many species of birds began to re-colonise these areas. Birds from Iberia advanced over much of Western Europe and those from the Balkans moved into Eastern Europe. In winter, as the climate deteriorated, these birds would return to their southern homes. The migratory patterns of many birds were thus established with West European birds migrating south-west in autumn and East European birds flying southeast. Other factors have modified this basic pattern in the case of a number of species of birds but the trend still holds true for a large number of species of land birds.
Tropical Africa is the major wintering zone for thousands of millions of European migratory birds. Many of these birds are reluctant to fly over the sea on migration and the Mediterranean Sea presents itself as a formidable barrier. For this reason vast numbers of West European birds congregate to cross the Strait of Gibraltar in autumn and return across in the spring. Gibraltar, at the head of the Strait, is a prominent headland which accumulates migrants during the passage periods. The vegetation of the Rock, unique in southern Iberia, is temporary home for many species of migratory birds which stop there to rest and feed before continuing the migration.
Gibraltar’s proximity to the sea and to another major hurdle in the migration, the Sahara Desert, makes it an essential landfall. In autumn migrants from the north feed on the Rock and deposit large layers of fat which may double their body weights. This fat is used during the migratory flight over the sea and desert (during which the birds do not feed) to provide energy and water. In spring the migrants have finished the desert crossing and stop at Gibraltar to replenish reserves of fat before continuing towards Western Europe. This journey may take them as far as Greenland or Russia.
Gibraltar is the winter home for other migratory birds from Western Europe which find food and protection on the Rock. Ringing research has shown that many individuals return to winter on the Rock in successive winters having performed many journeys north and south in the intervening periods. In the case of the Crag Martin, a species of swallow which only weighs around 22 Grams, individuals have returned to winter on the Rock for seven years.
The Rock of Gibraltar is therefore a stop-over for migrating birds of many species and a winter quarter for others. These species are protected in their breeding areas. Transit points and winter quarters must also offer protection if international conservation is to have any real meaning. All birds in Gibraltar are protected by law which means that they cannot be hunted. It is equally important that the habitats which they utilise for feeding and shelter are protected from urban development and therefore destruction. The loss of vegetation from the Rock or the progressive fragmentation of vegetated areas on the Upper Rock would reduce the sizes of the birds populations living there, whether as residents or in transit, to unacceptable levels. The protection of the Rock’s habitats is a commitment which goes beyond Gibraltar, it is an international commitment which forms part of a global strategy for the protection of birds with more than one home.
